Free Crochet Pattern: Farrin the Frilled Lizard

Calling all reptile fans! I was that kid that loved catching lizards in my backyard even though my mom would never let me keep them as pets. Even as an adult, I’m still fascinated by all sorts of reptiles. So when I randomly picked ‘frilled lizard’ from the suggestions of my Instagram audience, I was immediately on board. This project was so incredibly fun to design and I’m so proud of the end result. Not only does Farrin have a great mix of realistic and cute features, but there’s so many ways to customize him! I hope you’ll love making him as much as I did. Let’s slither into this free crochet pattern: Farrin the Frilled Lizard!

©2024 cbfiberworks. This pattern or it’s parts are not allowed to be redistributed, copied or resold. Any items handmade by you from this pattern may be sold, but please credit me (cbfiberworks) as the designer.

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Free Crochet Pattern: Farrin the Frilled Lizard

While you can get the free version of Farrin the Frilled Lizard here, the paid PDF has some perks you won’t want to miss!

Inside the ad-free PDF, you’ll find tons of photos and video tutorials to help you along the way. Plus this pattern comes with awesome bonuses including:

• Leg Mods PDF: Want to customize your lizard even more? You’ll find 2 additional Leg Mods that are easily swapped out to give your lizard some adorable new feet!
• Coloring Page & Notes Pages: Picking colors and keeping track of your project can be a pain, so that’s why I provide these handy pages. Test out colors before you start and then use the Notes Pages to keep track of all your information!
• Printer-Friendly PDF: If you love printing your patterns but hate using all that ink, you can print this version that’s only 9 pages!

Grab the premium version of Farrin in any of my 4 shops: Etsy, Ravelry, Ribblr, Ko-Fi.

Project Materials

• Yarn: Wool of the Andes (worsted, 7 skeins) –affiliate link
  • Color A: Blossom Heather (3yds) (pink)
  • Color B: Caution (53yds) (yellow)
  • Color C: Pumpkin (77yds) (orange)
  • Color D: Persimmon Heather (5yds) (dark orange)
  • Color E: Grass (7yds) (light green)
  • Color F: Seaweed (5yds) (green)
  • Color G: Forest Heather (3yds) (dark green)
• 3.00mm hook
• 10mm safety eyes 
• Stitch markers
• Tapestry needle
• Scissors
• Polyfil/stuffing
• Floral wire (optional)
• Pliers/wire cutters (optional)
• Tape (optional)

Stitch Abbreviations

(**) – See Project Notes section

• MR – magic ring (**)
• Sc – single crochet (**)
• Inc – increase (**)
• Dec – decrease (**)
• Ch – chain
• Sl st(s) – slip stitch(es)
• FLsc – front loop single crochet
• BLsc – back loop single crochet
• BLdec – back loop decrease
• Hdc – half double crochet
• Dc – double crochet
• St(s) – stitch(es)
• Rnd – round
• (#) – the number inside is the stitch count for the Rnd 
• [ ] – repeat the stitches inside the brackets the given number of times

Project Notes

• Skill Level: Intermediate
  • This pattern uses color changing techniques, wire-work, and some complex assembly. I recommend reading through the entire pattern before starting.
• Final dimensions: L: 4in. x W: 5.5in. x H: 9in.
• This project is written in US terminology.
• Unless otherwise specified, work in continuous rounds without using a slip stitch to join rows.
• Move stitch markers up each row as you go.
• Magic Ring: Create a magic ring and work the specified number of single crochet into it (ex. MR6 = 6sc into the ring).
• Single Crochet: Unless otherwise specified, this project uses the yarn under technique. Insert your hook into the stitch, yarn under, pull up a loop (2 loops on your hook), yarn under, and pull through both loops.
• Increase: work 2sc into the same stitch.
• Decrease: Unless otherwise specified, use the invisible decrease method. Insert your hook into the front loop of the next stitch, then insert your hook into the front loop of the following stitch, yarn over and pull through the first loop (3 loops on the hook), then yarn over and pull through all 3 loops on the hook.
  • Regular decrease: insert your hook into the next stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop. Insert your hook into the next stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop. Yarn over and pull through all 3 loops on the hook.

Tester Photos

My testers did an incredible job and each one customized their lizards in such unique ways. Check out all of their amazing projects below!

You might notice that some of the lizards have different legs than mine and that’s because the paid PDF of this pattern comes with 2 additional leg variations! This way you can create a truly unique lizard. Grab the premium version of Farrin the Frilled Lizard in any of my shops now: Etsy, Ravelry, Ribblr and Ko-Fi.

Pattern

Neck Frill

Start with Color B (Yellow).

NOTE: This piece is worked flat, so use yarn over single crochet. The ch 1 and ch 2 at the start of each row does not count as a stitch.

For a single color Neck Frill: ch 15, starting in the third ch from the hook: 4dc, 3hdc, 3sc, 3sl st. (13)

To make a multicolored Neck Frill follow the instructions below instead.

For Row 0, start by chaining 9 in Color B (Yellow) and then pull up a loop of Color C (Orange). This creates an additional chain. It can be easily missed if the yarn pulls too tight, so gently separate the chains as you go. Then create 5 more chains. You’ll have a total of 15 chains.

Row 0: B: ch 9, C: ch 5, starting in the third ch from the hook: 3dc, B: dc, 3hdc, 3sc, 3sl st. (13)

NOTE: If you’re changing colors like me, make sure to keep the color changes all on one side. This will be the wrong side (WS) of the work. The other side is the right side (RS).

Work in the back loop ONLY for the rest of the piece. 

(WS) Row 1: B: ch 1, turn, 3sl st, 3sc, 3hdc, dc, C: 3dc. (13) 

(RS) Row 2: C: ch 2, turn, 3dc, B: dc, 3hdc, 3sc, 3sl st. (13)

Repeat Rows 1-2 19 more times for a total of 41 rows (including Row 0). 

NOTE: If for some reason you have to adjust the number of rows, be sure to end on a RS row.

Fasten off with a long yarn tail (14-16in.). Use a tapestry needle to weave in all the other yarn tails, but leave the long tail for sewing later.

Neck Frill: Border

Use Color D (Dark Orange).

Holding the Neck Frill with the right side (RS) facing you, attach Color D with a ch 1 to the side of the first row. This ch 1 does not count as a stitch.

NOTE: You’ll create the border row by working 2sc around either the ch 2 or the first dc of the row.

Row 1: work 2sc in the side of each row all the way around. (82)

Fasten off with a short yarn tail (6-8in.). Use a tapestry needle to weave all the yarn tails.

Neck Frill: Spokes

This section can be a bit tricky. The paid PDF includes tons of photos and a full video tutorial for this section and more. Get the premium version of this pattern in any of my shops: Etsy, Ravelry, Ribblr or Ko-Fi.

NOTE: If you don’t want to add wire to your project, skip this section and continue on to make the Mouth.

Use a ruler or measuring tape to measure the width of the Neck Frill from the center to the outside edge. For me this measurement is 2.5in. Then use the ruler to measure the floral wire. Use wire cutters to cut a piece of wire a little less than double the width of the Neck Frill. My wire measured 4in. 

Repeat the previous step until you have 5 pieces of wire. 

Place your Neck Frill on a flat surface with the wrong side facing up. Lay each piece of wire evenly around the surface with one near the first and last rows, respectively, one on each side and one on the bottom center.

Once you’re happy with the placement, use stitch markers to mark the top edge where each wire rests.

We’ll be crocheting around each wire and working into the unworked loops. Start by attaching Color B (Yellow) in the first unworked loop near the center with a ch 1. That ch 1 does not count as a stitch. 

Holding the wire in place, insert the hook into the same place and single crochet around the wire by inserting your hook under the stitch where you need your sc to go and underneath the wire before yarning under. See row below:

Row 1: B: 10sc, C: 3sc. (13)

Fasten off with a short yarn tail (6-8in.). Use a tapestry needle to weave all the yarn tails.

Repeat this process for all 5 spokes.

Once all 5 spokes are crocheted on, use a pair of needle nose pliers to bend the tip of each wire down so that it doesn’t slide out. The other ends of the spokes should be sticking out in the center. Set this piece aside for now. We’ll be attaching it to the neck later on.

Mouth

Use Color A (Pink).

NOTE: This piece is worked flat, so use yarn over single crochet and regular decreases (see Project Notes). The ch 1 at the start of each row does not count as a stitch.

Row 0: ch 2, starting in the second ch from the hook: inc. (2)

Row 1: ch 1, turn, inc 2 times. (4)

Row 2: ch 1, turn, 4sc. (4)

Row 3: ch 1, turn, inc, 2sc, inc. (6)

Rows 4-5: ch 1, turn, sc across. (6) (2 rows)

Row 6: ch 1, turn, FLsc across. (6)

Row 7: ch 1, turn, sc across. (6)

Row 8: ch 1, turn, dec, 2sc, dec. (4)

Row 9: ch 1, turn, sc across. (4)

Row 10: ch 1, turn, dec 2 times. (2)

Row 11: ch 1, turn, dec. (1)

Fasten off with a short yarn tail (6-8in.). Use a tapestry needle to weave in all the yarn tails.

Lower Jaw

Use Color B (Yellow).

NOTE: This piece is worked flat, so use yarn over single crochet. The ch 1 at the start of each row does not count as a stitch.

Row 0: ch 2, in the second ch from the hook: 3sc. (3)

Row 1: ch 1, turn, inc 3 times. (6)

Row 2: ch 1, turn, sc across. (6)

Row 3: ch 1, turn, inc, sc, inc, 2sc, inc. (9)

Row 4: ch 1, turn, sc across. (9)

Row 5: ch 1, turn, [inc, 3sc] 2 times, inc. (12)

Row 6: ch 1, turn, sc across. (12)

Place a stitch marker in the last stitch of Row 6 to mark a sewing point for later. Don’t fasten off. Now we’re going to connect the Lower Jaw to the Mouth. Fold the Mouth in half. The unworked back loops from Row 6 should be on the outside of the fold.

Hold the sides of the Mouth and the Lower Jaw together with the Lower Jaw closest to you.

Insert your hook into the side of the stitch you just finished. Then insert the hook through the side of the stitches on the Mouth (in the corner of the fold). Work through both pieces all the way around.

Row 7: 6sc, 3sc in the tip, 6sc. (15)

Fasten off with a short yarn tail (6-8in.). Leave this tail for sewing later. Use a tapestry needle to weave in any other yarn tails.

Upper Jaw

Use Color B (Yellow).

NOTE: This piece is worked flat, so use yarn over single crochet. The ch 1 at the start of each row does not count as a stitch.

Row 0: ch 2, in the second ch from the hook: 3sc. (3)

Row 1: ch 1, turn, inc 3 times. (6)

Row 2: ch 1, turn, sc across. (6)

Row 3: ch 1, turn, inc 6 times. (12)

Rows 4-6: ch 1, turn, sc across. (12) (3 rows)

Place a stitch marker in the last stitch of Row 6 to mark a sewing point for later. Don’t fasten off. Now we’re going to connect the Upper Jaw to the Mouth.

Hold the sides of the Mouth and the Upper Jaw together with the Upper Jaw closest to you.

Insert your hook into the side of the stitch you just finished. Then insert the hook through the side of the stitches on the Mouth (in the corner of the fold). Work through both pieces all the way around.

Row 7: 6sc, 3sc in the tip, 6sc. (15)

NOTE: To distinguish the Upper Jaw from the Lower Jaw, place a stitch marker in the tip of the Upper Jaw for now.

Fasten off with a short yarn tail (6-8in.). Leave this tail for sewing later. Use a tapestry needle to weave in any other yarn tails.

Sewing the Corners of the Mouth

Find the stitch makers you left in the final stitches of Row 6 for the Upper and Lower Jaws. Use a tapestry needle to sew the corners of the mouth together, working into the stitch that’s to the left of the marked stitch. Weave the remaining yarn tail into the head.

Loving the pattern, but hate ads? Me too, but ads help me to keep making awesome patterns and other crochet content for you. To skip the ads and get a bunch of awesome bonuses, you can grab a copy of the premium pattern in any of my shops: Etsy, Ravelry, Ribblr and Ko-Fi!

Head

Use Color B (Yellow). 

NOTE: From here on we’ll be working in the round, so use yarn under single crochet and invisible decreases. Be sure to use a stitch marker to mark the start of each round.

Holding the head with the Upper Jaw on top and the open mouth facing to your left, insert your hook in the last stitch of the Lower Jaw. Attach Color B (Yellow) with a ch 1. This ch 1 does not count as a stitch. For Rnd 1, ignore the slight gap between the Jaws and work directly into the next single crochet.

Rnd 1: sc around. (24)

Rnd 2: [inc, 7sc] 3 times. (27)

Rnd 3: [4sc, inc, 4sc] 3 times. (30)

Rnd 4 is worked in the back loop only, so use regular decreases (see Project Notes).

Rnd 4: [4BLsc, BLdec, 4BLsc] 3 times. (27)

Rnd 5: sc around. (27)

Rnd 6: [dec, 7sc] 3 times. (24)

Place safety eyes on the sides of the head just above the corner of the mouth between Rows 6-7 on the Upper Jaw. The eyes should be about 7sts apart. You can now remove the stitch marker indicating the Upper Jaw.

Rnd 7: sc around. (24)

Pause here to add in the main wire that will run through the head and body.

NOTE: If you do not want to add wire to your project, skip this part and continue crocheting. You can also start stuffing your project. 

Using a piece of floral wire, first bend one loop equal to the length of the Upper Jaw. Then bend the wire into a ‘V’ shape and create a matching loop. Bend the rest of the wire around the inside corner of the ‘V’ to create a ‘Y’ shape. Insert the prongs of the ‘Y’ into the Head with each loop pressed flush to the inside of the Mouth. Then start adding stuffing into the Upper and Lower Jaws, keeping the wire centered inside the head.

Now we’re going to attach the Neck Frill to the unworked loops from Rnd 4. 

First, look at the top center of the head and use 2 stitch markers to mark the center 4 stitches. (These 4 stitches will not be sewn into.)

Now holding the Neck Frill and the Head  with the ‘right side’ and open mouth facing you, the center edges of the Neck Frill should line up beside the marked stitches on the top of the head. Then carefully insert each spoke into the neck just behind the unworked loops of Rnd 4.

NOTE: If you placed the wire spokes in slightly different places than I did, you may need to adjust where you insert each spoke. 

Once you have all the spokes inserted, double check that the Neck Frill is sitting evenly all the way around the neck. Then wrap each spoke around the center wire inside the head.

OPTIONAL: Wrap some tape around the wrapped wires so you don’t have sharp wire ends poking you. Plus this will strengthen the connection point. Now use a tapestry needle and the leftover yarn tail from the Neck Frill to sew the bottom edge to the unworked loops from Rnd 4.

Now you should be able to bend the Neck Frill back and forth. To keep it out of the way while you keep crocheting, fold the Neck Frill up toward the head. 

Rnd 8: [3sc, dec, 3sc] 3 times. (21)

Rnd 9: sc around. (21)

Continue stuffing as you go, keeping the main wire as centered in the neck as possible. Be sure not to over stuff so it’s easier to pose your lizard.

Rnd 10: [dec, 5sc] 3 times. (18)

Rnds 11-16: sc around. (18) (6 rnds)

Rnd 17: [inc, 5sc] 3 times. (21)

Rnd 18: sc around. (21)

Rnd 19: [3sc, inc, 3sc] 3 times. (24)

Rnd 20: sc around. (24)

Rnd 21: [inc, 3sc] 6 times. (30)

Rnd 22: sc around. (30)

Rnd 23: [2sc, inc, 2sc] 6 times. (36)

NOTE: If you want to make your lizard in a single color, ignore the color changes: Rnds 24-27: sc around. (36) (4 rnds)

Rnd 24: [B: 5sc, C: sc] 6 times. (36)

Rnd 25: B: 2sc, [C: sc, B: 5sc] 5 times, C: sc, B: 3sc. (36)

Rnd 26: [B: sc, C: sc] 18 times. (36)

Rnd 27: [C: sc, B: sc] 18 times. (36)

Cut Color B (Yellow) and continue only in Color C (Orange).

Rnds 28-43: sc around. (36) (16 rnds)

Rnd 44: [2sc, dec, 2sc] 6 times. (30)

Rnds 45-47: sc around. (30) (3 rnds)

Rnd 48: [dec, 3sc] 6 times. (24)

Rnds 49-50: sc around. (24) (2 rnds)

Rnd 51: [sc, dec, sc] 6 times. (18)

Rnds 52-53: sc around. (18) (2 rnds)

NOTE: If you want to make your lizard in a single color, ignore the color changes: Rnds 54-57: sc around. (18) (4 rnds)

Rnd 54: [C: 5sc, E: sc] 3 times. (18)

Rnd 55: C: 2sc, [E: sc, C: 5sc] 2 times, E: sc, C: 3sc. (18)

Rnd 56: [C: sc, E: sc] 9 times. (18)

Rnd 57: [E: sc, C: sc] 9 times. (18)

Cut Color C (Orange) and continue only in Color E (Light Green).

Rnd 58: 2sc, dec, 7sc, dec, 5sc. (16)

Rnds 59-63: sc around. (16) (5 rnds)

Rnd 64: 3sc, dec, 6sc, dec, 3sc. (14)

NOTE: If you want to make your lizard in a single color, ignore the color changes: Rnds 65-68: sc around. (14) (4 rnds)

Rnd 65: [E: 6sc, F: sc] 2 times. (14)

Rnd 66: E: 3sc, F: sc, E: 6sc, F: sc, E: 3sc. (14)

Rnd 67: [F: sc, E: sc] 7 times. (14)

Rnd 68: [E: sc, F: sc] 7 times. (14)

Cut Color E (Light Green) and continue only in Color F (Green).

Rnd 69: 4sc, dec, 5sc, dec, sc. (12)

Rnds 70-73: sc around. (12) (4 rnds)

Rnd 74: [4sc, dec] 2 times. (10)

NOTE: If you want to make your lizard in a single color, ignore the color changes: Rnds 75-78: sc around. (10) (4 rnds)

Rnd 75: [F: 4sc, G: sc] 2 times. (10)

Rnd 76: F: 2sc, G: sc, F: 4sc, G: sc, F: 2sc. (10)

Rnd 77: [F: sc, G: sc] 5 times. (10)

Rnd 78: [G: sc, F: sc] 5 times. (10)

Cut Color F (Green) and continue only in Color G (Dark Green).

Rnd 79: [dec, 3sc] 2 times. (8)

Rnds 80-82: sc around. (8) (3 rnds)

Rnd 83: [2sc, dec] 2 times. (6)

Rnds 84-86: sc around. (6) (3 rnds)

Use wire cutters to trim any excess wire.

Fasten off with a short yarn tail (6-8in.) and use a tapestry needle to sew the hole closed. Weave the remaining yarn tail into the tail.

Back Legs x2

Use Color C (Orange).

Rnd 0: MR6

Rnd 1: inc 6 times. (12)

Rnd 2: [inc, sc] 6 times. (18)

Rnds 3-7: sc around. (18) (5 rnds)

Rnd 8: [2sc, dec, 2sc] 3 times. (15)

Rnds 9-11: sc around. (15) (3 rnds)

Rnd 12: [dec, 3sc] 3 times. (12)

Rnds 13-15: sc around. (12) (3 rnds)

Fasten off with a medium yarn tail (10-12in.). Stuff each leg.

OPTIONAL: If you want the back legs to be more pose-able, you can add a short length of wire inside each leg.

Front Legs x2

Use Color C (Orange).

Rnd 0: MR6

Rnd 1: inc 6 times. (12)

Rnds 2-15: sc around. (12) (14 rnds)

Fasten off with a medium yarn tail (10-12in.). Stuff each leg.

OPTIONAL: If you want the front legs to be more pose-able, you can add a short length of wire inside each leg.

Assembly: Neck Frill (No Wire)

NOTE: If you used wire and already attached the Neck Frill, disregard this section.

First, look at the top center of the head and use 2 stitch markers to mark the center 4 stitches. Now holding the Neck Frill and the Head  with the ‘right side’ and open mouth facing you, pin the bottom edge of the Neck Frill to the unworked loops of Rnd 4. The center edges of the Neck Frill should line up beside the marked stitches on the top of the head. 

NOTE: You can use stitch markers to help hold it in place.

Use a tapestry needle and the leftover yarn tail from the Neck Frill to sew the bottom edge to the unworked loops from Rnd 4. Weave the remaining yarn tail into the body.

Assembly: Legs

Depending on how you want your lizard to be positioned, you can adjust the placement of the legs. If you used wire, you’ll be able to fold the Neck Frill back and close the mouth, so you can position your lizard down on all fours or standing up. 

Back Legs

Pin the Back Legs to the front side of the body between Rnds 46-49 with 4 sts in between. Your lizard should be able to stand up by balancing on the legs and the tail.

Before sewing on the Back Legs, first pin the Front Legs and check the positioning. 

Front Legs

Pin the Front Legs to the sides of the body between Rnds 27-31 with about 13 sts in between.

Once you’re happy with the placement and positioning of your lizard, you can use a tapestry needle and the leftover yarn tails from the Legs to sew the legs to the body.

Finished!

I hope you enjoyed this pattern! Farrin was a labor of love that took several weeks to create, but in the end I think this pattern turned out truly special. From the pose-ability to different customization options, there’s so many different ways you can play around with this project. If you would like a behind the scenes look at how Farrin was created, check out my Design with Me series on YouTube.

If you liked this pattern, share it with your friends and if you post your projects on social media, be sure to tag me (@cbfiberworks)! I’d love to see your lizard! Also, if you’re not subscribed to my newsletter, be sure to sign up so you never miss a new pattern, blog post, or special event!

Here’s some other free patterns you might enjoy:

• Hernando the Hedgehog
• Fin the Frog

Have a great day and happy stitching!