Free Crochet Pattern: Fin the Frog

Ribbit, ribbit! Are you ready to hop into spring with an adorable and addicting new project? Fin works up super quick and you’ll be hard-pressed to keep him for yourself once your friends and family get a look! Plus, this pattern is almost completely NO SEW so you can focus on making all the froggy friends you want instead of pinning limbs. Without further ado, let’s hop into this free crochet pattern: Fin the Frog!

©2023 cbfiberworks. This pattern or it’s parts are not allowed to be redistributed, copied or resold. Any items handmade by you from this pattern may be sold, but please credit me (cbfiberworks) as the designer.

Free Crochet Pattern: Fin the Frog

Tester Photos

Fin the Frog is a super fast and addicting project that you’ll want to make over and over! Since Fin is a no sew project, you can focus all that wonderful creative energy into making him in all sorts of beautiful colors! Check out these gorgeous frogs created by my wonderful testers:

Project Materials

• Yarn: Red Heart Super Saver (worsted)
  • Color A: Frosty Green Fleck (20yds)
• 3.25mm hook
• 14mm safety eyes
• Stitch markers
• Tapestry needle
• Scissors
• Polyfil/stuffing

Stitch Abbreviations

(**) – See Project Notes section

• MR – magic ring (**)
• Sc – single crochet (**)
• Inc – increase (**)
• Dec – decrease (**)
• St(s) – stitch(es)
• Rnd – round
• Ch – chain
• Sl st(s) – slip stitch(es)
• Sk – skip
• [ ] – repeat everything within the brackets, the given number of times
• (#) – stitch count at the end of the Rnd/row

Project Notes

• Final dimensions: L: 3.5in x W: 3.5in x H: 2.25in.
• This project is written in US terminology.
• Unless otherwise specified, work in continuous rounds without using a slip stitch to join rows.
• Move stitch markers up each row as you go.
• Magic Ring: Create a magic ring and work the specified number of single crochet into it (ex. MR6 = 6sc into the ring).
• Single Crochet: Unless otherwise specified, this project uses the yarn under technique. Insert your hook into the stitch, yarn under, pull up a loop (2 loops on your hook), yarn under, and pull through both loops.
• Increase: work 2sc into the same stitch.
• Decrease: Unless otherwise specified, use the invisible decrease method. Insert your hook into the front loop of the next stitch, then insert your hook into the front loop of the following stitch, yarn over and pull through the first loop (3 loops on the hook), then yarn over and pull through all 3 loops on the hook.

There are a few tricky parts to this pattern and if you need some extra visual help, you can grab a copy of the premium pdf in my Etsy, Ravelry & Ribblr shops! The premium version of this pattern includes 20+ photos and a helpful video tutorial.

Fin the Frog Pattern

Head & Body

Rnd 0: MR6

Rnd 1: inc 6 times. (12)

Rnd 2: 2sc, inc 3 times, 3sc, inc 3 times, sc. (18)

Place stitch markers in the 2nd and 5th increases from Rnd 2. They’ll mark a straight, horizontal line when you press your piece flat.

NOTE: these stitch markers are used to help keep your frog centered and make the top and bottom of the head more clear.

Rnd 3: sc around. (18)

Rnd 4: [sc, inc, sc] 6 times. (24)

Rnd 5: sc around. (24)

Rnd 6: 12sc, [inc, sc] 3 times, 6sc. (27)

Rnd 7: 14sc, [inc, sc] 3 times, 7sc. (30)

NOTE: The increases from Rnd 6 and 7 should be on the bottom of your head.

Rnd 8: sc around. (30)

Rnd 9: 13sc, ch 3, sk 3 sts, 5sc, ch 3, sk 3 sts, 6sc. (30)

NOTE: The gaps made by the skipped stitches in Rnd 9 is where we’ll later add on the front legs. Press your head flat and make sure the holes are in line with the stitch markers. If they’re slightly off, shift the [ch 3, sk 3 sts, 5sc, ch 3, sk 3 sts] over.

NOTE: For Rnd 10 only, work in the back loops when you get to the ch 3.

Rnds 10-12: sc around. (30)

NOTE: Rows 13-32 are short rows, meaning you’ll be working flat by chaining 1 and turning each row. The ch 1 does not count as a stitch.

Row 13: 13sc, ch 1, turn. (13) Leave the remaining sts unworked. Remove the stitch marker that marks the start of the Rnd.

Row 14: 16sc, ch 1, turn. (16)

Row 15: dec, 12sc, dec, ch 1, turn. (14)

Rows 16-18: 14sc, ch 1, turn. (14)

Row 19: dec, 10sc, dec, ch 1, turn. (12)

Row 20: 12sc, ch 1, turn. (12)

Row 21: dec, 8sc, dec, ch 1, turn. (10)

Rows 22-24: 10sc, ch 1, turn. (10)

Row 25: dec, 6sc, dec, ch 1, turn. (8)

Rows 26-32: 8sc, ch 1, turn. (8)

When you finish Row 32, ch 1, but don’t turn. Pull your working loop up long and remove your hook.

Remove the guide line stitch markers we placed back on Rnd 2. Place the safety eyes on the sides of the head between Rnds 5 and 6 with about 10 sts in between.

Fold the flat panel (Rows 13-32) so Row 32 lines up with Rnd 12, using 2 stitch markers to hold it in place. There should be 3 stitches on either side of the connection.

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First Back Thigh

Place your working loop back on your hook and begin Rnd 1 by working into the first of the 3sts from Rnd 12 beside the connected flat panel. Then work into the sides of the flat rows around to create a continuous circle again.

Rnd 1: 22sc, inc. (24) Place a stitch marker in the first st of this Rnd.

Rnd 2: 21sc, ch 3, sk 3 sts. (24)

NOTE: For Rnd 3, work in the back loops when you get to the ch 3.

Rnd 3: sc around. (24)

Rnd 4: [sc, dec, sc] 6 times. (18)

Rnd 5: [dec, sc] 6 times. (12)

Rnd 6: dec 6 times. (6)

Fasten off with a long tail. Use a tapestry needle to sew the remaining hole closed. Weave the yarn tail into the body and then use it to sew the seam (where Row 32 meets Rnd 12) together. Tie a knot to secure and weave the leftover yarn tail into the body.

Start adding stuffing to the body, making sure to fill the head and then the finished back thigh before adding more to the center of the body.

Second Back Thigh

Attach the yarn in the side of Row 14 with a ch 1. (The ch 1 does not count as a stitch.) Like with the first thigh, you’ll work in the sides of the flat rows to create a continuous circle.

Rnd 1: sc around. (24) Place a stitch marker in the first st of this Rnd.

Rnd 2: sc, ch 3, sk 3 sts, 20sc. (24)

NOTE: For Rnd 3, work in the back loops when you get to the ch 3.

Rnd 3: sc around. (24)

Rnd 4: [sc, dec, sc] 6 times. (18)

Keep adding stuffing, taking care to fill out the thigh as it closes up.

Rnd 5: [dec, sc] 6 times. (12)

Rnd 6: dec 6 times. (6)

Fasten off with a short tail and sew the remaining hole closed with a tapestry needle. Weave the yarn tail into the body.

Front Legs x2

Hold your frog with the belly facing up and the head away from you. When you start each leg, you’ll insert your hook into the stitch in the bottom right corner and attach the yarn with a ch 1. (The ch 1 does not count as a stitch.)

Rnd 1: 3sc, rotate your frog to work along the other 3 sts, 3sc. (6)

Rnds 2-6: sc around. (6)

NOTE: For Rnd 7, remove your stitch marker.

Rnd 7: sc, 3sl st, [sc, ch 4, starting in the second ch from the hook: 3 sl st] 3 times, sl st. (17)

Fasten off with a long tail. Use a tapestry needle to sew the remaining hole closed. Then weave the remaining yarn tail into the body.

Back Legs x2

Hold your frog with the belly facing up. When you start each leg, you’ll insert your hook into the stitch in the bottom right corner and attach the yarn with a ch 1. (The ch 1 does not count as a stitch.)

Rnd 1: 3sc, rotate your frog to work along the other 3 sts, 3sc. (6)

Rnd 2: sc, [sc, ch 4, starting in the second ch from the hook: 3 sl st] 3 times, 2sc. (15)

Fasten off with a long tail. Use a tapestry needle to sew the remaining hole closed. Then weave the remaining yarn tail down through the back leg and into the body.

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Finished!

You’re done! I hope you enjoyed making your very own adorable froggy friend! If you loved this pattern, make sure to share the link to this post on socials or send it to your friends. And if you want to share your glorious frog creations with me, you can email me at chanel@cbfiberworks.com or tag me on socials (@cbfiberworks)!

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Want to check out another fun, no sew pattern? Try my Free Mini Octopus pattern!

Have a hopping good day!